Crystal Cell Research Notes 1.2

So Today  12-14-11 at 1:30PM I started a shorting out test on one of the paper separator cells. The cell started off with 1.494v @ 31uA = 0.000046watts and I started to short it out. This is quite a lot of power from this type of cell and its got me worried. I fear that this cell will never be able to self charge it self once the short is removed. This cell will be more well documented than the glue cell that I shorted out for 3 months, noting that the big difference between the cells is this one I’m shorting out now contains no glue.  I feel certain that the cell will never reach that power level again once shorted out. I think I will short it out for a day and let it rest for a day and see where its at then.

1.440V 50uA = 0.000072watts- This was taken at 10:15PM 12-14-11 after allowing the cell to rest for 20 minutes so it could self charge. The voltage is not near the original but it was giving me the impression it wanted to keep going up and I expect the voltage to go up more. The amps being that big did surprise me. The cell was shorted out since 1:30PM and short removed and allowed to rest for 20 minutes and data was recorded at 10:15PM, the self charging of the cell does seem promising. We will see what power it gives tomorrow morning.

1.481v 15uA = 0.000022watts. 12-15-11 7:06AM. It looks like it lost power. I will short it out at 7:10AM and remove the short tonight and let it rest and record the power of it. It is very sad that it lost power but we will see.

short removed at 6:30PM 12-15-11

1.470v 60uA 12-15-11  7:45PM. This reading is odd, it seems right when you remove the short and allow like 30 minutes of rest the cell will give its best performance in power, but allow it to rest overnight and it seems to loose most of its power. I will let it rest overnight and then see if its at the power level it was at this morning.

.980v 44uA was the tin can cell, it started off at 1.191v 20uA. I’m just testing it in comparison to the above cell.

1.496v  24uA 7:00AM 12-16-11. Even though this is not the original power its is better than it was yesterday morning.

1.202v  31uA 7:06AM 12-16-11. This is the TIN can cell the next morning, it seems to be at a higher power rating than what it started with.

7:07AM 12-16-11 A short was placed on both cells. We will again short them out for the day and remove it and allow it to charge over night.

shorts removed at 7:20PM 12-16-11

1.458v 80uA at 7:56PM 12-16-11 on copper tube cell.

.854V 70uA at 7:57PM 12-16-11 on tin can cell.

1.502v 25ua at 7;05AM 12-17-11 on copper tube cell in the morning.

1.220v 35ua at 7;06AM 12-17-11 on tin can cell in the morning.

both cells shorted out a t7:21am 12-17-11

short removed at 5:50PM 12-17-11

1.497v 66uA 10:21PM 12-17-11 on copper tube cell. The cell is strong at 66 and 1.497, it was trying to keep going up beyond that.

1.072v 36uA 10:23PM 12-17-11 on tin can cell.

1.502v 26uA on copper tube cell. 12-18-11 7:00AM

1.308v 29uA on tin can cell. 12-18-11 7:00AM

1.493v 20uA 12-18-11 7:39PM on copper tube cell.  Using Ohm’s law R=V/I     i can find the Resistance of this cell. R= 1.493/.000020. So R = 74,650 ohms.

It would seem that the cells are self charging themselves. As far as power the cells seem to be at their highest power when the short is removed. A normal battery would have at least have a decrease in voltage with a load, these cells always return to their normal voltage even if shorted out for months as with the glue cell that was shorted out for 3 months. Don’t know if its having to do with the high resistance or what.

1.407V @ 3.20mA ——– Yes that’s correct I have made a cell that is in the milli-amp range when hooked to a meter!!!!!! But this cell is 5 feet long ½ wide and used almost all the magnesium ribbon wire and the tube is copper. Today is 12-19-11. This cell will be a great cell to recharge maybe a super capacitor and then run a load off the super cap. Maybe a few more of these cells and we could really do stuff.

I find it interesting that the 5 foot cell has a lower voltage than normal. I’m wondering it has to do with the increased wire ribbon needed, the more I used the more resistance it has. The cell is starting to act funny, it seems the be losing some of its power, I’ll see tomorrow where its at when has some time to settle. Now its at 1.380 volts at 800uA. I will also try shorting out test and also hooking it to a capacitor so it will charge it.

It should be noted that keeping a cell with a capacitor connected to it even a small farad capacitor will keep the cell alive and stronger for some odd reason. With a capacitor connected the cell will charge to a higher voltage all the time and of course since we have a capacitor connected  the amps go up too.

1.411v 400uA but then quickly shoots up to over 1mA. This is just odd, when I hook this 5 foot copper tube cell up to the meter it starts off at a disappointing 400uA but then it will quickly climb to over 1mA and wants to keep going. It seems to gain amps when a load is applied? I never seen a battery do this.

Once again keeping the cells connected to a capacitor will be best for them the copper tube cell the small one is at 1.523v with a lot of amps due to the capacitor.

1.428v 350uA but the amps keep going up to above 1mA and so on to over 1.4mA and it won’t stop.

I hooked the 5 foot copper tube cell up to the 10 farad super cap to see what it would do. It was over one volt in one hour, no other cell could do this. No cell could even budge it not even the big blue glue cell that powers the LCD clock. There is a lot of power in this big cell, but it seems hidden until you put a load on it like a super cap.

1-2-12
Ed leedskalin states that everything is made up of magnets and batteries contain magnets. This could hold up in the following experiments I’m doing.

What is shaped much like mickey mouse, one big oxygen and two little hydrogen. A steady stream of water place near a static field and the water will be attracted to it. But water is also diamagnetic so place a magnet near it and the water wants be away from it. So water is attracted to electricity but repelled by magnets. This is interesting and makes me wonder if a steel wire is place in water but has a magnet attracted to it so that the magnetic field is around the steel wire too will the steel wire rust? The making of electricity could be why the metals corrode, the water is more attracted to the metal but you could loosen that attraction with a magnet.

The cell with the magnet on the steel wire is at about 800mV.

Today is 1-7-12 and the Cell powering the LCD clock since about October is now not keep time actuate and screen is going dim. Its been in a vacuum sealed container for a month so we can rule out water in the air. Also I removed the LCD clock from it and the cell started to charge itself back up. The cell was at 1.110 volts at 50uA when I removed it from the clock, it shot right up above 1.236 volts and is still climbing. If the cell reaches back up to 1.4 volts and a good amps and will run the clock fine again I will call this a success.

It also seems that the cell that ran the LCD clock “big blue” has white powder protruding from it, this can only mean that the magnesium is corroding. Even though the cell is painted in blue paint some small holes still show up and allow moisture from the air to get into the cracks and corrode the magnesium. this so far does not affect the aluminum and copper cells so we need a better way to cover the cells maybe the dunking it plastic goop they use for making tool handles. Also should wrap the magnesium up with copper wire and then wrap it up in the goop.

As far as I can tell only the outside magnesium is affected because the cell is still charging up just fine.

I have some increasingly interesting things to say. First off I made a crystal cell on 5-11-11 and to day is 1-8-12 and it still is going, so what so great? It was the most simplest of cells, it was only Quick-crete and that’s it! mix up some quick-crete with water and stuck aluminum and copper into it and today I got two that are still going. One is at.800 volts at 3uA and the other is 1.033 volts at 15uA. It amazing to me that this simple configuration is still going but what is also interesting is the other cells made just like it. I have made the same quick-crete cells that were place in series on top of cardboard, these cells have died. So it seems the ones that were kept in series died while the single cells by themselves are still alive. Very interesting.

Also on the some interesting news is the cells that are water with copper and steel wire with one cup having a magnet touching the steel and the control with no magnet have given some odd results. It seems the magnet did not give any noticeable affects but that’s not the amazing part. After about a week of keep these two cells shorted out for a week they barely develop any corrosion at all, feeling like something went wrong I removed the short and abandoned the idea and left both wires in the water. After two days a dramatic development of corrosion has happen to both cups, the steel shows red rust everywhere, like its little red powder and the steel is being eaten away. So it seems that the direct short from the wire was what kept the steel from rusting, this is backwards way of thinking but it did happen. I’m going to run another test, one cell will be shorted out will the other will not be shorted out and we will see who will rust first. This effect would explain why some cells go dead when not in use, like a lead acid battery dying when not in use, but give it a load it stays alive.

OK today 1-8-12 I have filled two cups up with tap water and added table salt to it. Both cups there will be copper wire and stainless steel wire. But one cup will be shorted out with an alligator clip while the other cup will not be shorted out. The book teach us that the shorted out cup will corrode first but I think its going to be the opposite according to the above paragraph but we will see.

I find myself back to studying simple water batteries again. I feel like the person able to master and understand how and why metals corrode will be the one who makes the true free energy battery. So far what I notice about a water cell is that the metals copper and aluminum don’t start corroding until where the water meets the air. The metal that’s fully in the water is not corroded (the aluminum) but the copper seems to develop a somewhat what appearance to it. In the middle where the metals meet the air and water is where it shows some corrosion, the aluminum feels rough and the copper has developed tarnish. At the top of the metals they look new. This cell was shorted out for a few days. Could the corrosion be a result of the metals being near or at the point where the water meets air?

1-9-12. Today  after seeing that corrosion starts to form where the water meets the air with the copper and aluminum cells I’ve taken this idea and running a new test. I’ve taken two insulated stranded copper wire and placed them both in the water with one strand of copper wrapped around the aluminum wire. Both the copper and aluminum are not anywhere near where the water meets the air and the only thing that is the insulated plastic on the copper wire. My theory is far less corrosion will form on both wires. I also think stranded copper wire that’s used in wiring is far better to use in these batteries. The corrosion and tarnish showing up where the water meets the air was also visible on the cell I shorted out for 3 months. The copper turned green where it meet the glue mix and the air but in the glue it was fine and further out on the wire it was fine.

So the test were two cups with copper and stainless steel wire are in salt water and one cup is shorted out have given me results. the one that is shorted out is corroding faster, but what is most interesting is that both are corroding. What this means is that you don’t need the metals in electrical contact with a short to have the metals corrode, the short does speed it up a bit, but is not needed and thus further proving I’m right that its the water that does all corroding of the metals.

I’m still having problems with people replicating my cells. People keep thinking that they know what they’re doing so they go and add all known salts into one and this simple does not work.  I keep telling people you need to mix salt substitute and Epsom salt into one with either glue or water.

I put the big crystal cell, the 5 foot one, onto the LCD clock 1-9-12.

So I’m finding out that not all salt substitutes are not the same. I bought some other brand of salt substitute and they all contain potassium chloride but that’s where most similarities end. I bought one salt sub that really corrodes the metals. I did find that besides Mortons salt sub “no salt” works good too. But its odd even though one salt sub corroded the metals bad it still gives me above 1.4 volts. But is only been one day so we will see. So it seems that potassium chloride is still reason why the cells work.

Its winter here and all the cells are starting to loose power, none have gone below 1.3 volts but who knows. The big blue cell is old and only has 4 micro amps left in it so I said what the hell I dunk you in water so your amps will go up. To my surprise the amps stayed the same and never went up,  water is usually what brings the cells to life.

I’m really feeling like the cells are getting stupid to work with. I feel like I’m doing a 5th grade project at times. Yes I have seen somethings that make me wonder a bit but who knows. I’m taking a step back and working with water batteries. I know for a fact that water will corrode the metals, but I need a liquid that contains no water but gives me the benefits of water. I’ve tried mouth wash but it contains a little bit of water and I can see clearly that the magnesium is starting to bubble so it may not be a no go on the mouth wash. I really want to try rubbing alcohol but I don’t have any. I did just try block sealer (sodium silicate) and it does work and gives me a voltage but the amps are around 30 micro-amps. I do find it odd, Marcus Reid is said to use this and I remember reading that his cells sound like theirs a liquid in them which makes them heavy. Could Reid be using liquid sodium silicate? I don’t think any water is in the block sealer as the container says nothing about water. I’ll let the magnesium sit in it over night and I’ll see if it develops corrosion.

So the sodium silicate is not as great as I thought it would be. I added salts to one water glass cup mix and by two days the magnesium corroded away. Plain water glass will not corrode it away quickly but it will corrode it away eventually. So I got to thinking as I do about why the metal must corrode? Its the magnesium that corrodes away and that can be expensive too. So I looked up the Karpen Pile which has been running for 60 years. The Karpen pile is in sufphic acid which is very corrosive but he uses gold and platinum electrodes which will never corrode due to them not be reactive to oxygen. So this points out to me that if you use the correct electrodes you’ll never have to worry about what mix you use or about the metals corroding. The new problem is that the noble metals that don’t corrode are also the most expensive and not so easy to get metals. So unless I find a way to make gold and platinum for cheap I need something else. So I thought what has been here forever, is everywhere, and is cheap? ROCKS! I picked up some rocks from my drive way and tested them in an alum-water mix with copper as my positive electrode and I was getting 350mV! Not bad for several billion year old electrode! Rocks been around forever, can handle the water since some are found under the ocean and don’t mind weather. Can can rerode but that’s from the fact that passing or rushing water will carve at it. Mother nature has given me a great anode to use and its everywhere and its dirt cheap.

Rock idea failed,  i was getting voltage from the alligator clip because the whole rock was wet.

So I’m thinking big again. I’m thinking a wooden box that is open at the top, its long and wide but not tall. In this box will be 25 crystal glue cells. You will have 5 in series and 5 in parallel. The cells will be sitting in the wooden box with top of the wooden box exposed. Paint will then be poured on top of the cells, maybe black paint since its the cheapest and absorbs heat and sub light. This will create a giant glob of paint, the paint will be oil based so that the cells don’t short out. This glob of paint will be allowed to dry but since its a glob it may take awhile. The paint is their to protect the cells and since I will glob it on it will find its way to protect the cells. A top can be placed on the cell if need be. The whole wooden box should be painted too, maybe before placing the cells into it just for the extra measure. This 5×5 cells will be able to power a LED. I had 4 in series giving some barley LED light so I a 5×5 cell will give even better light. We could make more boxes for more power. I could even stack the cells vertical to get more cells in a box, but make a horizontal box cell first. I think I may use No salt salt substitute since it seems to be just as good as Morton plus I have more of it. I expect this box to power a LED but the led will go dim no doubt about it so an on/off switch will be on the box to allow the cells to recharge. The reason for making this is simple, I’m the only one proven a cell can be made without any more water needed to add to it to keep it alive and dumping paint on top of the box will insure that no more water will ever get in. Maybe many dumping of paint might be needed.

OK I’m calling this the galvanic game. What you do is take aluminum and copper and short them out till the aluminum is starting to corrode. Remove the aluminum and place it in anther cup of water but with a new piece of aluminum with it. Since one aluminum is more corroded than the other you get a voltage! This is a true way to make a same metal water battery.

I think the Marcus Reid cells used sodium silicate and Epsom salt.

The sodium silicate “water glass” and Epsom salt cell is slowly dieing off. As the hours and days pass the voltage and amps keep going down. This is why I love the Crystal glue cells as they dried out the voltage stayed up. So far the Crystal Glue cell is still a winner but its useless since its only giving me 10uA. I need more power so I need to find another mix. I’m still trying out the metal polish since its suppose to protect the metals. So far the metal polish puts a white haze over the magnesium. I’m getting 1.5 volts with 100uA easy with this when the polish is still wet but don’t know how long it will last. I’ve shorted out copper and magnesium in a bag of metal polish to see how long before it corrodes. I thought I was on the edge of a Marcus Reid cell. I’m going to ask if the Marcus Reid cell contains a liquid in it. I have a feeling that the Reid cells contain water since they use aluminum and he’s getting close to 1.5 volts with that. Something is not right.

I’ve made a 4 mini cell Crystal glue cell that are housed in drinking straws. I put all 4 in series and they’re powering a LED. the cells have only been drying for over a day now. The LED is getting dimmer but one thing I’ve notice is that is at a dim state now but its flickering a bit. I guess the flickering is from the LED not getting enough power to run so it bounces back and forth between on and off.

So I found out that if you fill a small copper tube with salt substitute and insert a magnesium ribbon into it you barely get voltage (30mV) but if you apply pressure you get more voltage (1.330v). At first I thought it was just piezoelectric effect but the piezoelectric only gives short burst of voltage this is instead giving steady power. Also what seems odd is that the cell will fluctuate a little. I leave the cell disconnected from the meter and it will go from 1.350 volts down to 1.330volts in a few hours as if its slowly discharging but as soon as I hook it back up to the meter it will want to slowly go up in voltage. But it gets crazier, when I switch to amps I get 1uA constantly and as many people know when you switch back over  to volts from amps the voltage is lower but not on this cell it goes up to 1.350 volts and keeps climbing. It seems the cell is charging when given a load.

Continued…