Crystal Cell Research Notes 1.1
I think I figured out a way to make the big blue cells easier. Before I could not figure out what would make a good separator, I was using hot glue but that was not good enough and it was tacky. I was going to use paper but i figure that would be too much resistance. The best thing to use mesh!!!!! The mesh that’s on the windows to keep bugs out would work fine or maybe a smaller mesh. The mesh is plastic and allows for the least resistance. This is a great idea and would allow for quick and big Crystal glue cells. I’m thinking of a really big cell, one that is like 6 feet long or maybe bigger. I want to make a big cell that recharges a super cap fast so that I can run LED’s off of that.
I have tested the shorted out Elmer’s glue, salt substitute, and Epsom salt cell that’s been shorted out since 8-12-11 and today is 11-8-11. The original voltage on this cell was 1.412 and letting it sit over night its is now at 1.404 volts and I’m sure it will keep going up. The amps is 2 micro-amps. This is by far a good reading when you consider this cell has been shorted out for almost 3 months.
So another good idea hit me. So I want to make many bigger cells so that I can have more power but it would get expensive. Copper is a very expensive metal, shoot we have people stealing copper from peoples houses. So I need a metal that is cheaper and then it hit me. Tin cans, the ones that hold the chicken noddle soup. These cans are steel cans coated in tin and the best part is the one can is a dollar and you get lunch too! also re using the can means I’m recycling. I don’t get the voltage as i would with copper but paired with magnesium I get over a volt which is good enough. I must use the outside of the can as the inside is coated in epoxy. This is a great idea I have. Maybe drill a hole in the top of the can and put a screw in it to give me a positive lead and something to hold when i spray paint the cell. Combine this with the plastic mesh that separates the metals and we will have a nice cell. There is no need to make expensive copper pipe cells. We are making the poor man’s free energy self charging battery.
I still think these cells are affected by the moon phases. The big blue cell has gone up in voltage and its a full moon now. As the moon gets less full the voltage should go back down.
Since these cells recharge themselves we could use them to make hydrogen from water. Keep them connected to water and they’ll slowly make hydrogen.
The big Blue crystal glue cell has given me some worries today. I woke up the LCD screen getting dim as if it was loosing power. I check and the two test leads that i use to test the voltage were touching or almost touching, i check the voltage and it was down real low. Just the other day i was humming along in the 1.360 volts just fine, heck when it was a full moon it recharge up to 1.400 volts but not the full moon is gone and the next day it went back to its 1.360 but skip two days ahead and now it drop to 1.100 volts and lower. This cause the LCD to get a little dim. This made me worry i thought the cell was now dieing off. I removed the LCD from the cell and let it rest for 4 minutes while it rest the voltage did go up. I reconnected everything but the cell was still weak and went back to its normal weak state. So i decided to keep it connected to see it die and figured it won’t even last a day. Now for some odd reason the LCD screen is back to normal brightness and the cell is screaming above 1.250 volts, as if it recharge it self. Its like the cell has a mind of its own and this further proves that a load should not be powered directly from the cell and the cell should only power capacitors.
The shorted out cell had 1.463 volts at 6 micro-amps and was shorted out on 11-10-11. the short was removed on 11-13-11 10:40am. We will see if after 4 days the cell can recharge back to that.
Light corn syrup works well especially well combine with Epsom salt and salt substitute as an electrolyte. I will leave some electrodes in that mix shorted out to see if the metals corrode.
WD 40 make a horrible electrolyte by it self, only get 5 millivolts. adding a crystal mix does not help.
Extra virgin olive olive gave the same results as wd40
To say that these cells don’t use water (glue and stove top crystal cells) is just crazy. they have water in them and without water they would not work. With out any water no cell will work, this is proven with the WD40 and olive oil. The more water you have the more amps you get but the water is the very reason why the galvanic cells die. I can not say that these cell contain no water and if i did then i would be lying. but saying that it has water does not end the debate just yet. Even though it has water in it does not mean much when the cell still works when frozen, the water would freeze and then stop the flow of ions. A frozen cell still works but the ever knowing people say that the reason why the frozen cell still works is due to the salts lowering the freezing point and to that I say I’ve placed a cup of water with the same ingredients in the same freezer at the same time with the other cell and even though it has salt it will eventually freeze. Even plain table salt in water will freeze and we use salt to melt ice but even salt water has a freezing point. The main point is the cell still works when frozen. I also do know that heating the cell will release the water from the crystal lattice and once the water is gone from the lattice the cell does not work until it reabsorbs water from the air. The cells are hard to determine, I can let the cell dry out for weeks in the sun and it will still work. I can paint the cell and it will still work. The biggest point is that no other cell does this. No other cell can recharge its voltage back its original state. The problem is that they’re low power and this could be the reason why they last so long. I could get more power by adding water but water is what eats the magnesium and other metals away. I just don’t know what these cells are, they’re galvanic but also they’re not.
A hydrogen fuel cell takes hydrogen gas and runs it through an electrolyte and this creates electricity and water. This is just the opposite of a galvanic battery. This must mean a galvanic battery takes water and separates it to create hydrogen gas that is released, thus the reason why lead acid batteries have vents. The electrodes in a galvanic cell provide the energy to make the water split, or is it the spiting of hydrogen that makes the electricity? a fuel cell use hydrogen to make electricity, could this be the reason why galvanic cell create electricity? A fuel cell makes water while a galvanic cell makes hydrogen and oxygen, fuel cell brings them together while a galvanic cell takes them apart. The galvanic cell is exposed to water and thus it corrodes while the fuel cell is not.
It maybe cost effective to not use Elmer’s glue anymore. Using Flour and water with the Epsom salt and salt substitute mix could be better. Mix the flour with water until you get a texture like mashed potatoes and added the other salts and mix really well. When the water evaporates it leaves the flour hard like glue, but a very important step will be to spray paint the cell as this is not as strong as glue and the spray paint will keep everything intact. This is how they make paper mache.
I still don’t get it. Its obvious that the cell uses water to make the voltage or does it? The Epsom salt and salt substitute by them selves in glue make little to no voltage. You would think the Epsom salt cell would make some voltage due to it having the most water locked up in it but in-fact makes the worst cell. All I can say is that water is at play but as to how I don’t know. Also the water should be corroding the metals and to show that the metals corrode they would loose voltage but they don’t, another thing to ponder. How or why these cells work is the greatest mystery. I do like to say that they appear to be more dry than a “dry cell” in today’s world.
You know it sounds crazy but I think these cells are affected by the moon. before a full moon and when the moon is full the cells gain power but when the moon goes down it looses power.
OK time for some real results. The cell that’s been shorted out for about 3 months and left to rest for about two days had 1.463 volts @ 6 micro-amps, this was on 11-10-11. After recording that I shorted the cell out til 11-13-11 and this day the short was removed and today which is 11-15-11 I recorded the power, were at over 1.500 volts at 8 micro-amps. This is certainly not a fluke these crystal glue cells really do recharge themselves. Truly amazing.
When I say that the cell can recharge itself people only see that it has only 8 micro- amps but what they don’t realize is that this is just a test cell, these cells can be scaled up.
The big blue glue cell is still powering the LCD clock, its been going for weeks now. I would say about 3 weeks now. Don’t know how long it last but the biggest feature of the cell is to self charge itself once the load is removed.
That’s impossible is what I keep saying. The cell that i short out was left to rest and it was at 1.500 volts plus and 8 micro-amps. This alone is an amazing but the next day which is today I re-checked it and I keep saying its impossible. The voltage is now at 1.500 volts even but its at 50 micro-amps. yes 50 fucking micro-amps. It went from 8 to now 50! This is better than new, cell this size only get 30 micro-amps at the most when first made. How the fuck did this happen?
OK so the 50 micro amps is something cool but the big blue cell has gone up too. The big blue cell was a week before acting strange and want to die it was around 1.100 volts but for some odd reason came back to life to around 1.250 volts and stay there for awhile but went up to 1.320 volts and just stayed there for awhile. It was merely 1.320 volts yesterday but now its at 1.400 volts. Both cells have gone up. It is true that we had a very bad storm and rain like crazy so the first thing came to my mind was that there is extra moisture in the air so the cells are getting more moisture thus the reason for more power. This would be true but the big blue cell is painted with multiple coats of paint. I don’t see that the blue cell being able to be affected by outside moisture as it is very much sealed off. The only thing i can think of now is barometric pressure would have changed or the higher chances of thunder.
So I guess some test with pressure are needed. Place a cell in a tube and compress the air around it. Or better yet take a cell and put in a sealed water tight container and place it under water, the deeper you go under the water the more power you should get.
These cells could be nothing more than barometers. lol
Using flour instead of glue has failed. Don’t know why it could be the flour destroys the crystal or the flour is to brittle.
The shorted out cell is at 1.485 volts with 65 micro-amps, it is still cloudy here. the big blue cell is still at 1.400 volts.
The shorted out cell has developed some type of white powdered like substance on top of the glue. The cell is now at 1.350 volts with only 1 micro amp. The cell could be dying. The biggest downfall of this cell was that it was exposed to the elements and i should have sprayed painted it. The big blue cell is still going but volts is down too but not too bad, its back to where it was before the storm. Whats odd is the big blue cell has formed the white powdered on top of its blue spray paint, but this could be because of the tray that it sits in is cover with random salts and they could have attached them to the cell when it was drying. But its odd that it formed on top of the paint and not the exposed metal that I use for contacts. It would be odd that an oxide layer would forum on the skin of paint. The blue cell is fully coated with paint with 3 coats on it so I don’t see how a hole would be their better yet why does the exposed metal that I use for the connections still looks like new? It is odd. It could be nothing too.
Its been bugging me about the blue cell and how it went up in voltage when a bad thunder-rain storm came through. The voltage going up when it was raining made think that the voltage was only going up do to the water in the air and if this was the case then it was merely galvanic and that’s bad. I was fearful of this fact and been putting it off for a couple of days now and tonight I broke free and tested the idea. I took a spray bottle and I sprayed the cell with water. I was expecting the worse, the voltage to go up due to the water, but instead it went down. Not going up is a good thing but going down is just dumbfounding. Why would it go down? This made no sense. If the voltage went I up I could draw the conclusion that it was galvanic, if it stayed the same i could say it was not galvanic, but instead it went down and how the fuck do I classify that? Its anti-galvanic? I’m now more confused then when I started.
Voltage on test before putting it in water to surround it with pressure 1.450 volts @ 10 micro amps
Well some disappointing news is that putting the test cell in a container under water to simulate pressure did not work. The voltage went down a little but that could be due to the cold water. The even worse news is that i started to splash water on the cell to see if would be affected. This test cell is a crystal glue cell that’s on notebook paper but has been spray painted. When the cell got wet it went up a little in voltage but the amps increased a lot. This only shows that the spray paint leaves small holes where the water can get in and I’m thinking this is why the cells went up during the rain storm. I need a better way to encase the cells. Maybe spray paint them and then put them in a sealed jar or something. This is disappointing news. I feel like I should place the big blue cell in a sealed off container and then see how long it runs the clock. better yet I wonder if I can vacuum seal the cell?
The crystal glue cell that was shorted out for 3 months is now back at 1.470 volts @ 26 micro-amps. I put it in a container to protect it from the environment to see what it will do now. today is 11-21-11.
I took the cell that is a tin can and magnesium with the crystal glue cell mix and i try to burn it. It doesn’t catch on fire. It does give it a burnt look. The voltage does go up but It at certain times did go down, but no matter what would return to a normal voltage. I had to stop testing because the can’s inner plastic layer was smoking.
I put magnesium ribbon in distilled water and watch it corrode and I showed a video of it and I thought I made a good point. The magnesium ribbon had half the ribbon in the water while the other in air. Having it setup like this caused black corrosion to form where the water met the air and further with time the whole thing was corroding even the part in water. It only took a day to see some corrosion on the magnesium. BUT I wanted to run the test again to see how much air affects the galvanic reaction. This time I took a small piece of magnesium ribbon and place the whole thing in water, no part of the metal was exposed to air. After one day no sign of corrosion, but bubbles are present but I think anything under water makes these bubbles. So far no corrosion is shown. Makes me wonder how long it will last. 11-21-11 was when it was put in the water
1.474 volts at 30 micro-amps. This is the power on the crystal glue cell that’s been shorted out for 3 months and the short removed, but that was awhile ago and its been sitting without the short for some weeks now. I’ve been watching it. I put it in a sealed container, the power on it was 1.470 volts @ 26 micro-amps. So it seems that the cell has gone up in power when the cell was sealed off form the environment. I’m also seeing an increase in power from the recent cell i painted blue. I’ve painted another cell blue but even though its the same size as the big blue cell its not at the same power. Blue cell #2 is less power because it used paper, this cell had notebook paper that was wetted and then salt substitute and Epsom salt was rubbed on it then it was allowed to dry over night and then the magnesium ribbon was added to it and was finally wrapped in electrical tape to protect it and it remained that way for month until i wanted to paint it. I went paint crazy with this cell, it has an easy 6 coats of dripping paint put on it, this cell is fully covered in blue spray paint. The important to note that the cell has gone up in power too ever since encasing it spray paint.
One big reason why I say to spray paint or encase the crystal glue cells is that I’ve seen increase in power. The increase is small, one cell went from 1.470 volts @ 26 micro-amps to 1.474 volts 30micro-amps. It was small increase but any increase is important when you consider that encasing the cell puts it even further away from the moisture in the air. So not only does encasing the cell keep it alive longer but it seems to increase power too.
Wow, on the topic of encasing these cells the big blue cell and its LCD clock was put into air tight box too and the voltage on it was around 1.360 volts now its gone up to 1.410 volts. So encasing the cells in an air tight box works really well.
Sealing up the big blue cell that powers the LCD clock has not only increase the power but also has stabilized the power’s output. Its still holding above 1.4 volts (1.405v) and is strong at that point.
We could make over unity circuits with the use of the Crystal glue battery. Sketch out a circuit then go over that with Elmer’s glue then sprinkle the salt substitute and Epsom salt on that and insert the components. The glue would act like the traces on a circuit board. using dissimilar metals would in crease the power through out the circuit board thus making it over unity. but resistance is too high!
These cells don’t need water to run and recharge themselves. But people still claim its nothing great and seek out to prove me wrong. After confirming the success of the cells being in a sealed container will keep the power stable and high a person has claimed water is at work. He says that i need to put water absorbing packets in the containers so it will absorb the water that’s in the container. This has already been done by Lidmotor when he was(and still is) testing my stove cell. Lidmotor placed the cell with the load in a sealed container with the packets overnight. He also had a control cell next to it that was exposed to the air. The next day Lidmotor showed that both the control cell and the one in the container went down in voltage, thus making it hard to justify the results. The packets were wet in the container showing that they did absorb water but the LED stayed lit and both cells went down in voltage. Now someone wants to prove that more packets will remove more water and the cell will go down even more, he thinks its purely the water in the air of the sealed container that powers the cell. I think this can’t be. The cells i use are spray painted and then placed in the sealed container, i think something else is at play. I told him if you want a fair test don’t use the drying packets as they still can release water into the air even though the absorb some water. I say use a vacuum as it is definitely lacking air and water. So I’ve bought a vacuum sealer and I’m waiting for it to arrive. I’m going to seal the whole big blue cell and LCD clock into a plastic bag that will have the air removed and then see if the thing runs for a few days. This is the only true way to prove the fact that the moisture in the air doesn’t power the cell. You can’t perform an any more accurate test.
Another big problem is the people who never make the cell like i say to and venture off onto something that is not even close. They keep adding water to it or keep adding new glue to it and adding more glue is like adding water to the cell. They never make my cell and then they try to state that their false cell is like mine and say mine acts like theirs do. They claim there false cell has a wet skin that sweats, but this is due them adding more and more glue to it before the glue gets to dry, and they’re using the wrong ingredients too.
So I made a cell by taking Epsom salt and Salt substitute and placing copper and magnesium on the bottom of it. I used a cinder block to hold it all as it does not conduct. I used a propane torch and heated the mix till it stop bubbling and started to burn. I got over 1.650 volts with 1 milli-amp when the cell was hot. Propane burns over 1000 degrees F so I’m sure i got all the water out. This is a great find. But it was brought to my attention that propane when burned creates water. I found a little more on the fact and the truth is that it burns up the water vapor and this is why we get fire and a visible flame. Propane is nothing more than a complex HHO cell. Its the water vapor that is burning up! This is why putting propane torch on metal creates no water marks on the metal.
I cooked an Epsom salt cell and salt substitute cell with a blow torch and with an oven at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. The oven dried cell was still alive after that brute test but the next day this is the results of the cells
1.075v 1uA blow torch cell
1.255v 1uA oven dried cell
Lower power, could the intense heat could have killed them? or the lack of water? Epsom salt absorbs water very easy and should have absorbed water last night without problem but it seems it didn’t. But it still is amazing that they’re even alive after going through those tough test. we could really have something.
OMG. I’ve bought an analog micro-amp meter to do some testing with and i was expecting low results and i did get that. I hooked up on cell up and it reads about 4 micro-amps. The meter goes to 0 -50-100-150-200 with 5 tick marks in between. The first tick mark is 5 micro-amps and the needle is below that and does drop even more while on load. BUT give it some time and the needle has gone above the 5 micro-amp tick mark. Its going up in power while under load!!!!
The fucking cell is going up in amps while connected to an analog amp meter!!!!
I left the analog meter connected to the cell over night. The cell went from 3 micro-amps to now the next day its at 9 micro-amps and been holding great. The cell is outputting more power while given a load. It looks like its still trying to go up.
Its 6pm and the amps have gone down now.
I’ve stated the cell went down at 6 when i got home and this is true but last night it started going back up and when i woke up in the morning it was back at 9uA. Once again today when i got home from work its at 6uA, so long as its not at 0 its all good. I will see tomorrow morning if it went back up. It could be going up due to me turning the heat on in my room, and it goes down when I’m not here because the heat is off?
This morning the cell is down, at around 4uA.
The cell is still down when i got home from work.
The cell was at 3uA all night and this morning, I disconnected it and took a shower and when I came back i hooked it back up and it read 9uA but dropped to 7uA and hovered their for awhile. Its amazing how it just jumps back like that.
I got in contact with lidmotor on YouTube to ask about the stove top cell that runs penny oscillator. He says the stove cell is now down to .600 volts but it started out at around 1.100 volts. It has gone down a lot and it seems its dying now. I took the big blue cell out of the vacuum sealed container to measure its voltage but in the process I’ve shorted it out and the voltage dropped to 1.250 volts but it was raising. I knew that I shorted it out because the clock reset it self back to 12 o clock. I’m worried that it too is dying just like the stove top cell that lidmotor has. I guess I can’t fool my self into thinking that these cells could last forever. But I can’t ignore the simple facts about these batteries I’ve made, they still work even with the lack of water. Only a certain combo of crystals only worked, like just using Epsom salt and glue made a crappy cell. Finding the right combo was key. Its just sad that the cells are dying.
OMG I’m so happy right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have figured out what powers my cells!!!!!!
Its not piezoelectric effect, the piezoelectric would only work with a tap or hitting a crystal, piezo only gives spikes of power and never a constant output that’s linear to the pressure applied. That means peizeo can’t give a constant power but only a short burst. So if you put a brick on a piezo it will spike a current then fall back to zero if you keep the brick on it.
My cell is linear to the pressure, put a brick on it and it keeps on outputting more power when you keep the brick on it. The amount of pressure applied is linear to the amount of amps you can get, more pressure more amps. You can keep pressure on it and it will still output the power at a constant rate. You could say in a way i have harnessed the pull of gravity, a weight of an object is mass times gravity.
I put my big deep cycle battery on the cell. it went up to 33uA and now settle at 28uA and been holding at that point for some hours now. I will keep it on the cell and watch to see if it is affect or what it will do.
It has been brought to my attention that the pressure thing is only the plates getting closer and that is why i get more power. this is possible put when i put the heavy object on the cell it goes to 33uA but slowly falls to 28uA within 30 minutes, if it was just the metals getting closer than it would stay at 33uA and not go down. never the less pressure does affect the cell no matter what. I can use this to make plate cells that i can use screws to compress the cells to get more power.
So I got this idea floating in my head to use electricity more better by use of the crystal cell. The idea of the joule ringer running of a capacitor that runs a LED and recharges another capacitor. The charging capacitor is hoked in parallel to the crystal cell that consist of paper separator and the Epsom salt and salt substitute rubbed into it with a coating protecting it and pipe clamps around it to adjust the power output of the cell. The crystal cell is there to put the energy that is lost from charging the capacitor, so in that way the circuit last longer. Find away to have the circuit flip flop between charging and run capacitors and we could have a LED that runs for a long time. Could replace the led with a motor that can lift a load so that people get a better idea of the free energy. We could be onto something here.
So not having the amp meter connected to the cell that is being squeezed is a great way to recharge the cell. Squeezing it gives me more power.
A bit of bad news, the big blue crystal cell is down in voltage, its at about 1.160 volts. Its been running that LCD clock for about two months now just fine. It ran the LCD clock just fine in the vacuum too. I think the only ultimate test or really the only test is to remove the clock and lets see if the cell will self charge itself back to normal while in the bag. If the cell can’t recharge itself back to 1.400 volts while in the vacuumed sealed back than its nothing more than a galvanic battery. If the cell does recharge itself than it really is something special.
Removing did bring the cell back to over 1.200 volts and was slowly climbing back, so there seems to be some hope. One thing I notice is on the blue paint and protective plastic that’s on the alligator leads had a white powder that hung around, this is odd. It would seem that the cell is trying to oxide but can’t due to the paint and plastic is in the way so it just settles on plastic.
After a few hours the cell is back to 1.350 volts and holding, we will see what the next day’s voltage will be.
1.370 is the voltage on the big blue cell the next morning. The cell does look like it wants to go up and charge some more so we will see what happens.
I only gave the big blue less than one day to recover it made it to 1.386 volts and it seem most if not all of the amps came back (300uA). I feel the best test is to let it run the LCD clock in the vacuum sealed container and see how long it runs. This seems to be the best test to do now and I feel like i want to explore the pressure cell more since it simpler and very unique.
I think the pressure crystal cell (i like that name) seems to be worth it right now. using the copper tubing with the paper soaked in Epsom salt and salt substitute and allowed to fully dry and then wrap magnesium ribbon around that seems to make a great low power cells. Where this cell shines is when you put pressure on it, squeezing the cell increases the power output by a lot. I could make a pressure cell that will outperform the crystal glue cell. Combining the pressure cell with a capacitor would seem the best way to go about this. Also sealing the cell up in paint would keep corrosion away. These pressure cells connected to an amp meter will power that amp meter but he amp meter does act like a load and does drain the power from it but remove the amp meter the cell gains a burst of amps, this is why i think capacitors will work best because as they fill up the load gets less.
When squeezing the cell i could be only placing the metals closer to each other and that’s why i get more power. But this would not explain why the power goes down over time? I just don’t know yet the ideas are too young.
The one thing that puzzles me is that when you give pressure the cell and keep the pressure their the cell goes up in amps but over time it will go down and it going down has nothing to do with the amp meter. You give it pressure and it goes up but after a few hours or maybe days depending on the cell the amps will go back down. I don’t know if it will go all the way back to down or what. Its just odd the amps would go back down, i haven’t touched the clamp or the cell. Is the cell settling or is this still some type of piezoelectric effect.
I feel like I’ve made nothing more than a galvanic battery.
You can squeeze the cell all you want but over time the power will drop.
The only thing that is amazing about these cells is that they hold their voltage especially the glue cells with the Epsom salt and Salt substitute. The cells that have just have table salt don’t hold their voltage and neither does any other cells except for the cells that contain the Epsom salt and salt substitute.
I just don’t get it. People think these cells work by water. They say water is in the glue, air, Epsom salt, or what ever they say. I’ve made the cells that have only Epsom salt or just only Elmer’s glue or even nothing at all to show that the paper was not the reason. I’ve had people tell me glue takes years to dry but a cell that only has glue that is dry makes for a crappy cell. I’m tired of explaining to others that its the combining of Epsom salt and salt substitute is the reason why the cell works and not due to the Epsom salt or water in the glue, the water evaporates from the glue when it dries and the water in the lattice has nothing to do with anything. The only test I’ve haven’t done is put the cell in the a jar with water absorbing packets to see if the cell looses power as the packets absorb water from the air. I’m sure the glue cells will not be affected.
Oh one thing i did notice was that last night i hooked a 9 volt battery to one of cells without the glue and left it connected overnight to see if it would charge. The best i got was the cell was at 1.8 volts with 25uA. So over it seems the cell doesn’t like charging up that much, and once the battery was removed the cell fell down back to its normal voltage and amp range showing that charging the cell is useless.